![]() If the roots dry out, they'll die and cause even worse problems. Also keep the roots moist as best as possible during the procedure. You're getting late in the year to be potting up but leaving the tree in the compost is likely to do more harm. Be careful and try not to disturb the roots any more than necessary. Reason for asking is, if you only potted up you can likely plant the tree in the ground for this year or pull the plant out of the compost mixture and pot up using a soil with similar soil characteristics as the soil in the root ball. With the high temps the tree needed even more water but couldn't get it due to the nutrient imbalance.Īt this point, if I'm right, I think your only option is to get the tree out of the compost mixture.ĭid you bare root the tree when you repotted or did you pot up ( ie take the tree out of the pot, loosen the out side roots and pot into the large container placing the compost mix around the existing mostly intact root ball? I believe I remember reading that when nutrients are too high in the soil, a plant isn't able to absorb water from the soil. My guess would be your tree was showing signs of fertilizer burn from the compost, and the high temps aggravated your already stressed tree. Container culture is very different than planting in the ground, and even If planted in the ground I wouldn't plant a Japanese Maple in a mixture of 50% compost. I think there's a couple of things going on here. I thought Japanese maple likes sun? the tag even says full sun.īased on the additional info, I'm going to guess you have a combination of fertilizer burn and sun burn. Would hot 100 degree weather yellow a tree in such short time? Yes, the tree is in a sunny location that gets more than 8 hours of sunlight. I don't know if it's the fertilizer, or the hot weather, or combination of the two. After that, the browning and wilting happened drastically, basically half of the tree yellowed in 2 or 3 days. ![]() so I poured some Bayer Advanced Protect and Feed ( ) I did follow the instruction but instruction was confusing, so I poured 1/3 cup with 1.5 gal of water, not sure that's the right amount. ![]() Initially it only had 10-20 leaves browning, I guessed it was some sorta bugs. Is that possibly an issue too? but it was doing great in the first two months.Īnother fact is the browning of the leaves happened very slowly initially. ![]() The barrel was filled with 50% potting mix, and 50% well aged chicken manure compost. I suppose digging it up, emptying the barrel, and moving would be even more stressful to the tree. Since it's in the barrel filled with dirt, it's going to hard to move it. I will try Blake's suggestion to confirm if it's v-wilt tonight after work and report back. Only way to know for sure if v-wilt is present is to take a sample to an extension office. You can also split the branch longitudinally and look for black or brown streaking in the wood (another indicator of v-wilt). If you see any black or brown concentric rings (sort of following the growth rings), this would be another indicator of v-wilt. Look at the cross section of the cut branch. This would eliminate another couple of stressors.Īn option might also be to prune one of the dead branches. The tree is obviously stressed, so an additional measure that might help is to move it to a more shady area that's protected from the wind. Unfortunately, this means where some of these trees thrive in full sun or dry weather, others need a bit more protection.Īl has more experience than most of us combined, and I'd be inclined to go with his initial thought (over watering/over fertilizing). Some places even sell seedlings under the generic "Coral Bark Maple". Any blackening in the dying branches? This would be a common indicator of v-wilt in that cultivar.īroad spectrum of genetic variation in that cultivar. ![]()
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